Boom De Yada: On to our first Port in the Bahamas

As we moved across the Banks, we could see a few anchor lights from boats that stopped for the night (about a mile off the Magenta line). The route most traveled is to leave Miami at 04:00 to arrive in Bimini early afternoon when the sun is above making it easier to see coral heads and rocks.

Looks 6ft deep

Then many stay in Bimini until the weather window presents itself to make it to Nassau, but you must anchor out on the Banks for the night so you’re not travelling in the dark. As the sun came up we could see what looked like 6ft of water when it was actually 23ft...beautifully clear turquoise water. Wally and I were anxious to start fishing. So we grabbed a Ballywoo out of the freezer; it was already rigged with a wire leader so the catch can’t cut the line with their teeth. It wasn't long before we heard ‘ziiinnnggg’ from the rod, I grabbed the rod out of the rod holder and tightened the drag….it was still zinging out line. I tightened some more until I could start reeling it in...it was a big one! Julie slowed the boat down to a crawl, so she could still manoeuvre the boat as the catch tried to circle the boat. Wally was at the ready with the gaf (a 5 foot pole with a large hook). I pulled it up close to the boat and it looked like the Kingfish we had just caught about a month ago. With the same few instructions I had learned just weeks ago, Wally used the gaf like an expert and landed this monster on the deck...the head and mouth didn't look like a Kingfish. I quickly flipped through the pages of our fish book to identify...it was a Great Barracuda...because of its size it was no good to eat due to possibility of Ciguatera poisoning.

Great hunters!

We very carefully used the needle-nose pliers to remove the hook from his mouth and threw him back to the sea. The Great Barracuda was kind enough to leave half our bait so we threw the line back out and in no time it was the same movie. This time Wally had the pleasure of reeling in a big one. With slowing down to reel in the fish, we lost some good time and we were wasting bait so we decided to pack it in while on the Banks.

The tidal current as we approached the Northwest Channel (get picture from Google) (aka ‘the tongue of the ocean’ that drops quickly to several thousand feet in depth) has our speed over ground at 9mph. It's now our last 15 miles of this passage to Chub Cay. After 23 hours, we approach Chub Cay. There are a handful of boats anchored off the beach in a beautiful lagoon just outside the marina entrance. We must first go into the marina to check-in with Customs. We tie up to the dock and the ice is already dropping into our cups. We made it to our first destination in the Bahamas...warm breeze blowing, blue sky and friendly locals...yahoo!!

Anchored at Chub Cay, heading in for groceries

The marina is $2.75/foot for the night, water is $.40/gallon and electricity is $30/night...we stay one night as they will deduct the $100 fee for using their dock to check-in with Customs, off our total bill. With rum on our breath, the taxi (the manager in his truck) takes us 2 miles, across the landing strip to a small building where only the Captain visits with the Customs agent. It must be something about that uniform that removes all personality from Customs officers. She is a large black lady with glasses; I hand over our passports and 12 forms that I had to complete (some duplicates); she just starts processing the paperwork as I stand in front of her desk. I ask if I can take the old wooden chair from the corner to sit on; “yes, as long as you return it”. I lay on the small talk and by the end of the process she is smiling and her mouth is watering for homemade conch salad...I ask where she lives and what time we should be over to taste it. I hand over $300 cash (must be cash) and we are good to stay in the Bahamas for 90 days and then later we will need to apply, in writing, for an extension...we will worry about that later!

Aside from the marina, there is no other business on this island. The marina had financial problems so an oil tycoon from Texas purchased the marina and the island for $52MM. The locals (over a 100) have no expenses.

Docked at Chub Cay Marina

They work keeping the marina, restaurant and little community going and live in the little homes provided. We made use of the beach and the infinite swimming pool. However, the swim-up bar was not open. We got invited to a little bar setup for the locals that has a sound system for parties, a large TV, pool table, dart board, fooseball and ring toss. The three of us had a great time socializing with the locals who are very warm and friendly. We never once felt uncomfortable.

At $123.75/night (not including water and hydro) we waited until noon before leaving the marina to anchor just outside in the harbour. We tried to tuck into the lagoon as far as we could for protection from the winds. However, the surge was enough to have us rolling from side to side all night...not a good night sleep and for our third night the winds will clock around to where we will have no protection. The three of us snorkeled around exploring the harbour's sea-life. I happened to find a conch and brought it aboard in order to practice (for the first time) the fine art of getting conch out of their shell. I got my hammer, and remembered the instructions to make a hole at the third knuckle, then stick your knife in to cut where they attach to the inside of the shell. Well, there wasn't much left of the shell when I was done with it...the poor guy came out in two pieces...its all a learning experience! Today, a shipment of produce is expected...it usually disappears within hours. We take the dinghy to check in at noon, they say come back at 14:00. We arrive back at 15:30 to find slim pickens...there was a box on the floor with some potatoes, onions and sweet peppers...we grab a few items. Back at the boat in the lagoon, we can see two boats anchored further outside of the harbour. Thinking they knew something we didn't, since we were the newbies...we picked up anchor and went out to join them. Sure enough, the surge was not as bad. However, with the winds that will pick up through the night it will still make for an uncomfortable night. It wasn't uncomfortable, it was very uncomfortable. Sadly, we still need to wait around Chub Cay for our weather window to cross a 40 mile piece of deep ocean to Nassau. The weather is looking good for tomorrow, one more night of high winds unprotected, so we contemplate moving 4.5 miles further East to get protection from the coming NW wind. We decide we will poke our nose out around the corner to assess the ocean state...the waves are huge and on our nose.

Our first dinner out in the Bahamas

We’re not even very far out and we are pounding into 5ft waves. I wait for a slight lull and make a quick 180 degree turn and radio the marina to request a slip for the night. Back in the marina, we meet a few other boats also hiding out for a good nights sleep...this would be the last marina we stay at in The Bahamas. One of those boats is a 47ft Catamaran named Vaiata with Johnny and Cathy...they become our buddy boat for the next two weeks all the way to George Town. We went to the beach for another swim, chilled out and went to dinner at the marina. Not everything is better in the Bahamas, it certainly is more expensive, and dinner was not great. While walking back from the showers, Wally spoke to a local fisherman who was cleaning a bucket full of conch. We returned with money hoping he would be willing to part with some...a dozen for $25. We split the booty with Johnny and had conch salad for the next few nights...it was that easy. Talking to the fishing boats will prove to be very beneficial.